Coleman Powermate 544000 Manual

26.01.2020

AG AG-Tronic / Powermate Generators Apparently there are a lot of the old AG-Tronic gensets out there but the AG-Tronic company doesn't exist anymore. The AG-Tronic and Powermate generators are now supported by PRAMAC America, LLC, and parts for most of the AG-Tronic and Powermate generators are available from them. They can be reached at either or and you can download manuals and parts lists for just about all of their units. Replacing Brushes Many of the 4KW and larger AG-Tronic generators have 'brushes' as part of the generator and these need periodic replacement. However, on occasion after the brushes are replace there is no output.

When this happens you may need to re-magnetize (a.k.a re-excite) the field coil. Below is the procedure as provided by PRAMAC America LLC, 4970 Airport Rd, Kearney, NE 68847 Tel: 800-445-1805 Fax: 308-236-4598. Remagnetizing Brush Style Rotors If there is a loss of residual magnetism (voltage will not build up), it may be necessary to re-excite the generator head.

Use a DC power source (minimum 6V DC, maximum 24V DC) such as a 6V lantern battery or a 12V automotive battery. Disconnect all loads from the generator. Remove the brush cover. Plug a lamp or light into the generator before starting the engine. The light source will illuminate when voltage has returned. Start the engine.

Attach the negative ( -) lead of the battery to the negative (left) brush. Very briefly, touch the positive ( +) lead of the battery to the positive (right) brush. Remove as soon as voltage builds up. To measure voltage, use a plug-in voltmeter. Repeat steps 1 through 6 if no or minimal voltage is present.

If the rated voltage does not return after re-excitation, one of the generator components is faulty and will need to be replaced. Remagnetizing Brushless Rotors In brushless units (usually 3000 watts and smaller) the rotor is magnetized through the 120V AC receptacle using a 6 or 12 volt DC battery WITHOUT the engine running. Put a two wire jumper plug into one of the 120V AC outlets. Touch one wire to the negative (-) battery post.

Touch the other wire very briefly to the positive ( +) battery post. It is normal to see some sparking. Start the generator and check for voltage. Repeat steps 1 through 4 if no or minimal voltage is present, If the rated voltage does not return after re-excitation, one of the generator components is faulty and will need to be replaced. GENERATOR MAINTENANCE Lot's of folks buy portable generators, use them, and then put them away until 'next time' only to find out they won't start or run. While the exact steps may vary a little depending on the brand of generator and engine used (consult your owners manual) you should at least do the following.

Run the unit until it runs out of gas. (This is very important if your gas contains any ethanol.). Change the oil (4-cycle engines) and replenish your reserve oil. Clean the air filter. Check all bolts for tightness. Blow or brush accumulated debris from the fins and other areas of the unit.

Remove the spark plug, clean or replace it and check the gap. Pour a small amount (about 1/4 to 1/2 ounce (7 to 14 cc) of engine oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and crank the engine slowly to distribute the oil. Replace the spark plug. Cover unit before storing. Keep the manuals and instructions with the generator. Inspect all extension cords and power strips for any damage and replace if necessary.

Please email comments or questions to Fr. Frog by. Disclaimer As far as I know all the information presented above is correct and I have attempted to insure that it is. However, I am not responsible for any errors, omissions, or damages resulting from the use or misuse of this information, nor for you doing something stupid with it.

(Don't you hate these disclaimers? So do I, but there are people out there who refuse to be responsible for their own actions and who will sue anybody to make a buck.) Updated 2012-11-19.

Coleman

My stator blew on my coleman 544000 series 54 generator. I know its old and not worth alot of time or money. It doesn't have alot of hours on it and its in otherwise nice condition. It sat for years and years before i serviced it prior to the storm that hit us hard.

It worked for 4 days till a wire came loose from its terminal and shorted on the stator coil (not sure when it came loose we were not using that outlet) the breaker poped but the stator took a major hit blew out a few wires on the winding of the stator. My rotor is in wonderfull condition and there is no rust on my entire unit. I am looking for the stator or sell parts from mine. I would prefer to find a decent stator and maybe a spare cap. The stator is part S0050469 but i have not found one yet. I am not sure if its interchangeable with other parts from other models.

Any help would be appreachated. My stator blew on my coleman 544000 series 54 generator. I know its old and not worth alot of time or money.

It doesn't have alot of hours on it and its in otherwise nice condition. It sat for years and years before i serviced it prior to the storm that hit us hard. It worked for 4 days till a wire came loose from its terminal and shorted on the stator coil (not sure when it came loose we were not using that outlet) the breaker poped but the stator took a major hit blew out a few wires on the winding of the stator. My rotor is in wonderfull condition and there is no rust on my entire unit. I am looking for the stator or sell parts from mine.

I would prefer to find a decent stator and maybe a spare cap. The stator is part S0050469 but i have not found one yet. I am not sure if its interchangeable with other parts from other models. Any help would be appreachated.

Sometimes you can get interchange info from customer service at pramac america at some of these links: Coleman Powermate generator info! (now owned by Pramac America) (download owners manuals) 800-445-1805 Generators / Home Standby:.Customer Service: 1-888-977-2622.Technical Service: 1-800-445-1805.Email: Clymer has some Coleman gen in their small ac gen manuals. I just double checked your model # and it is a 4000 watt,Mine is 5000 so the rotor would not help me any =( I would keep an eye pealed on ebay, craigslist, Even call your local lawnmower shops and ask them if they have any used parts, I bet you will find the stator for under $50 if you have the time to look around. I found a rotor for mine via craigslist, the guy had it listed as a 5000 watt for parts, I went and got the rotor, brought it home and it was a 4000 watt rotor, I paid $30 for it so i was not upset, I am thinking about converting it to a 4000 watt and keeping my old stuff from it for the day i find a 5000 watt rotor. PS, What happened to your Stator? I was under the impression that the stator and rotor are the hardest parts to kill and that they rarely went bad.

Coleman Powermate 544000 Manual Pdf

I killed mine by dropping it while removing it from the generator. I blew appart 2 bits of the windings thats it. Now this is on the stator I know you can hand rewrap these I just don;t have the resources for the wire. If i knew where to get the wire for it I would do the whole stator.

Thats the issue. Although if i had to buy the wire I would probaly rather have a whole working one just save on the labor. Post added at 07:10 PM - Previous post was at 07:07 PM - THe way it blew was entirely my fault I replaced the breaker on the 220 side and forgot to bend the prong over it eventuly shorted the coil on the breaker with a nice big arch blowing appart two wires on the stater winding. I may try to put it back together real quick. The wires are thick and since its localized i may beable to mend it temporary style.

Powermate

Does anyone know of the wires are enamaled or can i just solder them back together? Any place i can get the wire so i can rewind. QUOTE=theskyisoutthere;845488I blew appart 2 bits of the windings thats it. Now this is on the stator I know you can hand rewrap these I just don;t have the resources for the wire. If i knew where to get the wire for it I would do the whole stator.

COLOR='Silver' You can get the wire at an electric motor repair shop. Bring the stator and let them match it up. Get some varnish and tying string too. Since it is the stator, balance is not an issue. You may find the 2 blow outs are contiguous. Then, I would unwind the piece between blows, trim back the 2 ends to good material and twist & braze connections. Insulate, tie down, varnish - probably last life of machine.

There is no repair shop where i am with in 100 miles of me. I tried to find one. The only place i could find was 120 miles from me and they wold fix it but wanted about 300 to fix it parts and labor just to fix the stator issue or 500 to rewind and test. Honesly i would like to just find the wire and fix it right.

Can i use a regular wire guage to find the size? I was not sure because its coated. But not a casing. I know how they work but honestly i never messed with windings. Or the type of wire. Use a small flame to burn off the insulation then measure.

Coleman 6250 Powermate Generator Manual

544000

Regular wire guage will work or a micrometer will do. You could compare your insulated winding size to known good wire but it's best to burn it off. For the power winding you'll have to stick with the same size as space will be limited.

For the DPE winding and DC winding you should be able to go a size or two larger without running into difficulty. There's losts of space there and larger wire here won't be critical.

Don't use smaller wire of course. The amount of wire you need is minimal, maybe 1 lb max.

I don't know current prices but if it's over $12 a pound today I'd be surprised. Post added at 08:00 PM - Previous post was at 07:55 PM - Could you post a close-up of the damage? This doesn't sound like it's major. Its almost identical to a 12 guage wire striped. Its just a touch under.

Do i need to buy special coated wire? Or can i fix it with some striped off 12 guage i have I might even have enough slack to pull the broken ones together but not enough room to braze the ends. I may be able to solder the ends back with an iron but to braise i would have to pull them away from the body a good bit to not burn the rest - Post added at 09:08 PM - Previous post was at 09:02 PM - oh and the wire is not insulated its looks enameled I see the copper.

Would a solder joint be a consern in the winding? Why ask is I just repaired a stator on some knock off machine.

A mounting bolt inside which attaches the inner bell to the motor came out. It rolled around inside chopping into the power windings. About 4-5 wires were cut. All that was required was lift those out being careful to match and not cross them to another damaged wire lol. Solder in another short wire for each to make them reach, place insulating sleeve and papers under and tie up solidly. Coat with varnish.

For something this minor some silicone will hold things in place. Done in minutes and works like a charm. Ok looking at it better I have about 8 wires affected in total most are not breached there are 2 small lines completely blown the larger ones are not busted but they are marked and the enamal is breeched Here is the big question I have the 2 blown appart wires 4 pieces. They were not identifiable to which one is part of the other.

I know that there is only 2 possible ways it could be. I took the multimeter to the ends and two of them have low resistance if checked the other way the do not have continuity. (yes bad spelling) So i take it that they should be a circuit not going to the same spot so i should connect them they way they do not have low continuity correct? Basicaly I am thinking this is not a loop right? They don;t leave and return the same terminal correct? If so then I have the right idea.

Post added at 05:58 PM - Previous post was at 05:55 PM - forgot the picture. It might help if you examine the lead(s) leaving the generator. There could be what is called 2 in hand. By that there are two enameled wires attached to the lead. They do this to double the cross sectional area of the winding using two smaller rather than one large wire to compose the winding.

It's easier to work with and packs into the slots better. Some larger motors I've worked on have as many as 4 number 16 or 17 guage. Sometimes they even combine two different sizes of wire such as one 16 and one 17. You say smaller wires are breached only. That doesn't sound like the power winding.

Probably an exciter winding or voltage sense. I need to look back in the thread. Was there a wiring or schematic mentioned? If the damage to the enameled wires isn't too severe you might be able to leave them alone.

Maybe just lift them carefully and insulate from adjacent wires. If they break when you do this you'll have splice them as well. Don't use electrical tape or heat shrink for insulating. It's too soft and won't take much heating.

Use a surgical cloth tape with some body to it. Perhaps hockey tape might substitute.